It’s the edges, the margins, that always contain the most diversity.  Large expanses of unbroken landscape take a portion of their character from their scale, a vastness, that the uninterested can often view as monotonous.  Seemingly endless expanses of ocean, desert, prairies even forests, can lull some into indifference, a kind of blindness, in which they lose interest and fail to see the intricacy and richness of that which surrounds them….By overlapping two different landscapes places can take on a complexity that neither has alone…and may even arouse many of those inured to the natural world surrounding them.  Two different landscapes sharing a common edge can form ecotones, where each landscape contributes species in patterns not found across the vastness of each alone.  Cut a river through an arid landscape and it becomes altogether different often with stark changes within a few feet.  Such is the arid canyon landscape of the Deschutes River immediately north of Bend, OR.

This is a typical community on the upslope side of the trail, native bunch grasses, Balsam, with other wildflowers and Bitterbrush and Sagebrush between widely spaced Pine.

Looking down slope from the trail and across the river you can see how abrupt the landscape changes as your move up and away from the river’s influence.

Gravity is the dominant force in any canyon, it’s what causes the water to flow which carves down through the earth’s sloping surface, cutting through rock and carrying the debris ultimately out to sea. The younger rock high up on the canyon’s rim erodes and along with the power of the freezing and thawing of ice fractures and splits away rock to tumble down into the canyon creating a slope of unconsolidated rock which itself is worn away by the river. The falling rock varies widely in size with massive rocks like this one bounding down until slope and friction bring it to a stop.

Rock and soil continue to wear away creating slopes that vary with the nature of the falling/collecting material, slopes that have a characteristic ‘angle of repose’. If the material falling away from the rim is roughly the same, so will be the angle of repose over time. Finer soils fill in the gaps and plants take root.

Ponderosa Pine dominates the next swath, top to bottom. As the river ‘digs’ deeper, the canyon broadens mainlining this general slope. The soils vary depending on the composition of the many layers of rock built up here. In general trees require deeper soils.

Rock is never just rock. There is chemistry going across their surfaces and are often covered with life, species dependent upon their composition, area climate and exposure. Only the newest rock, that recently cleft or fractured open, that is relatively free from life.

While this rock may look like it came to a stop against this tree, this Pine is relatively young and likely germinated at the rock’s base. The young tree may have benefited from the extra water afforded the site by the rock’s sloping surface and may have also helped shade/cool the soil slowing the possible desiccation of the tree. Successful plants take every advantage afforded them.

Bend sits on the edge of the Ponderosa Pine Forest and the Sagebrush Steppe in an area where the Western Juniper has been allowed to become more dominant.  The Deschutes River flows down out of the eastern central Cascades turning north across the plateau country on its journey to the Columbia River, leaving the Fir then Pine forests behind on its way.  It is this juxtapositioning of geography and botany that provides the Bend area with so much of its appeal.  This is where the Riley Ranch Nature Reserve (RRNR) is located.  (Interestingly, Riley, the homesteader here, once held grazing leases in the Deschutes headwaters country which later became flooded when Crane Prairie Reservoir was created, ironically, negating his summer grazing lease, as the land was submerged to help store water for irrigation downstream to aid those with pasture lands and farming in Central Oregon, undercutting his ability to continue ranching.)

Julie and I spent a couple nights in late May at Tumalo State Park, about a mile and a half downstream from RRNR.  A well designed, built and maintained trail joins the two parks together following the river near the toe along the sloping eastern side of the canyon, both rims rising well above, the trail often traversing or crossing around tumbles, or falls, of fractured basalt that  broke away from the rim above.  Along one such stretch of 200′ or so the massive basalt fall comes right to the river and an engineered bridge/path floats, supported above it.  The trail has a mostly uniform grade.  You do need to pay attention to your footing, remember all of this rock, which is stable, but can cause you to stumble if you are to casual in places.  There is really only one exception to this and that is along Robin’s Run, within the RRNR, along the steep pitch that climbs out of the canyon on an irregular series of natural stone steps and twisting ramps…not a built stairway!  The only other steep portion is the very short pitch at the trailhead, downstream, near Tumalo State Park.

This shows the canyon that has carried Tumalo Creek to its confluence here with the Deschutes. The Tumalo drains the lands rising west of Bend including the Tumalo Mountain area and east of Broken Top its formal beginnings at the spring just passed Skyliner’s Hill, the first formal ski site in the Bend area.

This is immediately downstream of the previous photo, below the rapids, with a ‘swimmable’ pool and a rock the water fowl has obviously used to rest on. Above, the ‘red’ basalt identifies it as a product of a different lava flow from the rock that otherwise dominates here.

This portion of the canyon, toward Tumalo State Park, is marked by relatively uniform, steep slopes, on both sides without flat bottom land such as is on the former ranch property.

The green riparian edge of the river is very narrow within most areas of the canyon. the land rising quickly, drying, in just a few feet, while the river constantly wears at the rock within its channel.

Before the regulation dams were built to limit stream flow by the local irrigation districts, now managed by the federal Bureau of Reclamation, the Deschutes flowed more irregularly with the seasons, occasionally flooding and washing more of the canyon bottom.

All of this rock began somewhere above. These, worn smooth, have been polished by thousands of years of river action.

The rapids here suggests that the river continues as it has for thousands of years, unimpeded. Upstream significant flow is diverted away through a series of irrigation canals to ‘green’ the desert. There are several small dams that effect flow rates and the larger ones at Crane Prairie and Wickiup Reservoirs built to assure summer flows for irrigation.

Building such a structure across was not straightforward. Posts required drilling into the largest rocks and relies heavily upon the bracing turnbuckle system seen here.

The ‘bridge’ provides a stable, uniform surface upon which anyone can cross this rockfall…and it is done rather beautifully! Without it only the most intrepid would likely cross this tumble of massive rock. There are benches from which to pause to watch the rapids below or for listening for and spotting birds as we did on this morning.

The river was here well before the more recent lava flows that filled its former canyon forcing the river to change its course and carve out a ‘new’ canyon adjacent to it.  It is impossible to ignore the geology of this country.  It is upfront and in your face everywhere!  There is informative signage pointing out the basics of the history of the landform and rock of this area.  There are several accessible books explaining the local and regional geology of this region that will inform your own understanding of what you are looking out and how it came about.

This is the sign that greets you as you approach the RRNR from the river trail providing, among other things, the park’s prohibitions against the use of bikes and dogs, whether on the leash or not.

The directional signage is very good and consistently applied at all trail junctions, not that anyone will get ‘lost’ here.

This informational sign post, near the viewing platform, provides a simple map and description of the lava flows that were central to topography and soils here.

The signage at the trailheads, junctions and along the route is superior, clear and well done.  Of note are the admonishments that the trails are not open to bicycles! two of which we met along the relatively narrow trail, the riders feigning ignorance who then tried to downplay it jokingly when we confronted them…you know the type.  It is also good to keep in mind that dogs are allowed only on the connector river trail, but not anywhere in the RRNR.

We began our walk from Tumalo State Park.  There is a trail that continues passed the lawn at the south end joining the trail from the parking lot.  This goes a couple of hundred yards before meeting a private paved driveway that quickly delivers you to the trailhead right next to a private bridge that crosses the river to a home across the way.

Western Serviceberry, Amelanchier alnifolia, is found frequently in Ponderosa forest and all of the way across the Cascades into the Willamette Valley where it grows with much more vigor to small tree size. This is another important species for native fruit eating birds. Here in the Willamette Valley Cedar Waxwings are currently feasting on our Serviceberry.

A closeup the fresh new growth of Snowbrush, Ceanothus velutinus.

Bitterbrush, Purshia tridenta, is an important member of the Sagebrush Steppe and common throughout it.

This closeup shows the small flowers of Bitterbrush, a member of the Rose family with its little 5 petaled flowers.

Ribes cereum, the native Wax Currant is common here. This is a desert denizen and can be found far away from any surface water.

An older Snowbrush plant with younger growth topping older dead stems. This plant is a member of the Pine community requiring a little more water than the arid plants of the Sagebrush Steppe.

The canyon trail is within the Sagebrush/Ponderosa ecotone, Juniper is intermixed with Ponderosa Pine and open swathes of Sagebrush and meadow all within the steep and sloping canyon walls of tumbled basalt.  Here are species of both landscapes.  The most notable exception is the area Manzanita, Arctostaphylos patula, which is common south and west of Bend, but not here.  There is lots of Bitterbrush, Purshia tridentata, and Wax Currant, Ribes cereum, above the trail mixed with the Artemsia and much lesser amounts the Ceanothus velutinus, Snow Brush and the drought dwarfed Western Serviceberry, Amelanchier alnifolia.  This spills down towards the river where it loses out to the native shrubby Alder, likely Alnus incana, the smaller shrubby form, dense thickets of Spiraea douglasii, Cornus stolonifera, the Redtwig Dogwood and Prunus virginiana, or Western Chokecherry where it grows as a shrubby thicket along the river bank, which were in full bloom during our visit.  Here too is at least one shrubby Salix species with a scattering of Rose as well.  Down at the water’s edge we saw what I think is Western Blue Flag Iris, Iris misouriensis, budded, but not yet in bloom, with its glaucous, bluish foliage.  Sadly, there were also scattered clumps of Iris pseudoacorus, the invasive, with its bright yellow flowers and shiny, medium green leaves, especially closer to and in Tumalo State Park.  They’ve attempted to control/limit access directly to the water, the density of the shrubs helps greatly with this, but there is plenty of evidence of hikers taking random routes down slope, disturbing the soil kicking smaller rock down as well.  The disturbance has lead to a significantly higher proportion of weeds like the invasive Cheat Grass.  Upslope, above the trail, is clearly dominated by the native Fescues and other grasses.

Looking to and across the river beginning with Sagebrush, backed by Bitterbrush and then a mix of riparian shrubs including the Chokecherry, Alder, Redtwig, Willow and even native Rose a little further from the water. On the other bank, steeper than this side, the transition occurs even more quickly.

Here we see an individual Chokecherry, Prunus virginiana. In many places this forms dense thickets. In other regions with milder climates these often grow as smaller trees.

Also common here next to the river is Redtwig Dogwood here with their small, creamy white flowers held in an inflorescence called a cyme.

Near Tumalo State Park looking upstream across the thicket of growth that closely borders much of the river, here it is Spiraea douglasii. An abandoned bridge pier remains midstream in the distance.

As you walk the trail there is considerable variability in the ground layer with some patches almost of solid Mahonia repens, others of Sagebrush, while others still were predominantly grasses.  Wildflowers were evident everywhere.  Everyone recognizes Yarrow, Achillea millefolium. I found myself scanning for my favorites and was a little surprised at the dearth of Penstemon.  I noted only 3 Castaleja maybe Applegate’s Indian Paint Brush as well, while there was a lot of  Lupine, including Lupinus lepidus (?) and probably a few Milk Vetch, Astragalas, though none were blooming.   My grasp of desert and arid land wildflower species is a little weak, but I did note several different Lomatium and Eriogonum species along the path.  Balsamorhiza careyana, though I wouldn’t stake my life on this ID, occurred throughout the area in single and multiple clumps.  Scattered throughout the canyon in slight shade Western Wallflower, Ersyimum capitatum, was here and there as was at least one species of Phacelia.  There were many other herbaceous species, not yet blooming, that I would not even hazard a guess at.

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Balsamorhiza cereyana…or I think it is.

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Western Wallflower, Erysium, is scattered through out the entire canyon, though absent from the uplands of the RRNR.

I’m not sure which Lomatium this is, there are likely several here. Some of these, commonly called biscuit root, were harvested for their edible tubers by native peoples.

This Penstemon, near the Tumalo State Park entrance to the connecting river trail, was the only one I found on this visit! I’m sure there are more which should include several species. Is this Peck’s?

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Lithospermum ruderale, Western Stoneseed, can be found around the world in similar temperate climates.

Western Stoneseed growing above the trail in a more meadow like community.

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Down in the canyon, within the RRNR itself, I also spotted  the little native aster, Townsendia florifer, as well as a scattering of Larkspur, Nothocalais troximoides, the False Desert Dandelion, Redstem Spring Beauty, or Claytonia rubra and, the find of the day, a juvenile Rattlesnake!!! sans rattles, holding its ground threateningly on the edge of the river loop.  Here, the canyon bottom is broader and not only was there space to graze cattle down here, but it was also the site of 3 log structures, two of the them cabins, now all well on their way to rotting having collapsed many years ago.  The old pastures here, like above, with irrigation absent, are being reclaimed from pasture grasses and the Eurasian weeds that had taken hold.  For me, this must have been a truly idyllic place to live, though as bottom lands the cold would have settled down here posing a threat to veggie gardens compounding this country’s already brief summer growing period.

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Climb the trail out of the canyon along Robin’s Run, a steep pitch that probably limits the less than sure footed, to the flatland atop the rim and near the parking area of the Reserve and you’ll find yourself firmly in the Juniper/Sagebrush Steppe with the expected change/reduction of species.  Much of this is old pasture undergoing restoration with its rocky perimeter and occasional rises populated with the familiar steppe plants.  Two loop trail traverse most of this and they are broad and smooth topped with 1/4 minus gravel providing a surface suitable to families with young children and strollers.  On our visit some areas had been disked with raw exposed soil.  I’m not sure what their immediate plans are for it in terms of planting or if it was just a tactic to eliminate a particularly pernicious weed.  To the outside of this path it is all too common to find the invasive Cheatgrass already well along on its way to producing seed!

This is what’s left of one of the three hand hewn cabin structures on the lower 30 acres of the old Riley Ranch along the river bottom, this one probably used as an old stock shelter. Down here the flat shelf is dominated by Ponderosa Pine

The lower pasture, now in ‘recovery’, down in the canyon. In the middle distance you can see that the Sagebrush has taken over much of this area.

Robin’s Run, a portion of the steep trail climbing out of the canyon.

At the top of Robin’s Run the trail cuts up through a lower shattered portion of the bluff.

This area, just outside the main path around the Meadow in the upper Reserve is currently overwhelmed by the invasive Cheatgrass, already turning red with its ripening seed.

The large ‘meadow’, no longer under irrigation, is in recovery and on its way back to sagebrush steppe with a mix of native grasses and wildflowers. In some sections weeds and some invasives were evident as was efforts to control them.

From the viewpoint near the main parking lot, looking across the Sagebrush Meadow to the foothills and the Central Oregon Cascades.

From the formal viewpoint looking upstream. The portion of the canyon and the uplands to the left, west, of the river are in a future expansion of the Park according to the Master Plan. The land is currently closed.

The main viewpoint cantilevered over the edge of the canyon rim is a great spot to look downstream and observe birds below.

The main viewpoint cantilevered A panoramic shot from the cantilevered viewpoint.

The upland portion of the reserve is broad and open, covering about 150 acres.  Most of the old pasture area is devoid of trees including neither Pine nor Juniper.  When we visited it was around 70º.  Without shade, this area will be hot on warmer days, so choose your visiting times accordingly.  Along the top of the rim are two well sited and built viewpoints.  One gives a view upstream, toward the river where it has carved its path around the ‘point’ below Awbery Butte.   The second is a platform, further north, that projects somewhat over the rim’s edge, great for observing birds that work the canyon below.  Another spur trail winds quickly to a low rocky bluff within the ‘meadow’ to give a little longer view, while closer to the main parking lot is another formal viewing area that provides a panoramic view of the nearest Cascade peaks and foothills.

For most people the diversity of species in our arid landscapes will probably come as a bit of a surprise.  Too many people only see ‘dead’ and ‘brown’.  Pick up a manual that focuses on these plants.  Look closely as you walk the trail and observe.  Train your eyes.  Take your camera along and reference the Wildflower Search website, as I did here, which will give species lists for the specific area including the likelihood of finding a particular plant on that site at the time of year you are looking.  It is an amazingly helpful and exhaustive site, produced by Steven Sullivan, the brother of NW hiking book author, William Sullivan, with lots of references and links to photos and descriptions, created and found elsewhere on the net.

The Master Plan for Riley Ranch Nature Reserve, Bend Metro Parks and Recreation, Mar, 2017

The master plan pictured above, includes the future expansion and improvements to the Reserve.  I presume plans are underway to complete the entire project, but this doesn’t always happen or can take many years due to funding, land acquisition or easement issues.  The Point Loop portion is not open.  As everywhere property owners aren’t always supportive of projects that bring the public on or next to their own little bits of paradise.   The trail to Tumalo State Park is open.  The expansion of the connecting trail system, making it possible to walk the river to town or cross the river and hike all of the way to Shevlin Park west of Bend, along Tumalo Creek, have long been anticipated and will someday be wonderful assets for area residents and visitors alike.

Overall the RRNR is a very nice addition to the Bend Metro Park and Rec’s portfolio of parks.  It is unique in its system as a nature reserve and like all such efforts sorely needed as the urban area continues to sprawl out across the land forever transforming this unique place.  One can only hope that the area adopts a more compact pattern of growth to protect Central Oregon because there is no sign of growth slowing.  Sadly, this seems a little doubtful as there is a strong anti-urban sentiment common amongst residents, the newly arrived all wanting their own piece of paradise.  Much is being lost as should be expected.

On the day following our hike we drove to Bend along OB Riley Road, the same Riley of the Ranch, to Glen Vista which takes you west to the main parking lot at the Reserve.  Across the road from this street preparations for a large development were underway.  The site was dominated by the coarse  and irregular surface lava flows that solidified here thousands of years ago.  Early construction/grading was underway with the sounds of heavy equipment and jackhammering which was probably preceded by extensive blasting, homogenizing the entire site into a typical and uniform subdivision.  Hopefully, the Reserve will help awaken residents and developers of Bend, Redmond, Sisters and other area communities, to the natural beauty, literally at their feet and spur them on to consider what they are doing to this place.  For now the land’s main value lies in our ability to convert it into housing and profit.  At least some of us, who still think of this region as ‘home’, are pained by the rate and patten of growth that continues and the consequent loss of the unique natural character of so much that is essential to the quality of life that has attracted many thousands here since the discovery and boom of this place as a mecca for outdoor recreation.

More Information and Things to Do!

Here’s a link to a list of native plants along the Deschutes River around Steelhead Falls  further downstream in Crooked River Ranch.  The list area is a little more isolated being further out in the sagebrush steppe country so it will vary slightly from those found at RRNR.  Check out their, Guide to Common Native Plants of the Deschutes Canyon Area, by Marilynne Keyser published by the Friends and Neighbors of the Deschutes River Canyon.  This is an active group who advocate, provide education and lead guided hikes as well as do conservation work centered around the Steelhead Falls area of the Deschutes River.

Participate with and become a member of the Oregon Natural Desert Association, ONDA, based in Bend, another advocacy and education group who are busy doing replanting projects, invasives control, leading guided hikes and providing social and education events to members and the public.

The Deschutes Land Trust’s mission is to work cooperatively with landowners to conserve land for wildlife, scenic views and local communities.

The Oregon Nature Conservancy, a long established organization, has taken on the intermountain west’s vast sagebrush steppe country, among others, working on the ground to restore and protect this neglected and abused landscape.

Take your family to the Oregon High Desert Museum south of Bend on Hwy 97 as an introduction to the values and history of this desert country.